We found a nice route slightly to climbers' right of the obvious grassy gully. I would advise staying down close to the water to work through the trees. Dan raced ahead and grabbed Fabio's stuff and filtered some water for of us. This was pretty much our last opportunity - above the headwall we were pretty much committed to going up and over Ypsilon Mountain and down Donner Ridge. Blitzen Ridge, Ypsilon Mountain . On October 31, 2007 I received the following note from Charles Ehlert (currently of Seattle, WA): Found your site while Googling Blitzen Ridge on Ypsilon Peak. For the last Ace, climb slabs on the right (north) side (YDS 5.4) until you reach easy ledges that wrap left towards a white boulder, from there cross to the left (south) side of the ridge and climb either a corner or chossy ledges to the top of the ace (YDS 5.2). After rounding a gendarme, dropping down on the north side of the ridge a little bit, then scrambling back up to the ridge proper we spotted Brian and Dan far ahead of us. From here, there are either anchors to rappel or it's a quick (YDS 5.0) downclimb to reach the col before the fourth and final ace. Walked down to Fall River Pass in the morning and hitch-hiked down. For those who aren't familiar with the route it is a strenous ridge climb found on Mt. I was totally wrecked, but incredible satisfied with another great day in the hills. Looking down the grassy gully Once on the ridge, you still have a bit of easy hiking before you get to the start of the 4 Aces which mark the start of the technical climbing. Fabio set off on the north side looking for a ramp system that would go. And this is actually the summit you can see. We met up with Brian and Dan on Donner Ridge and began the descent down into the basin between Donner Ridge and Mount Chiquita. I'm not exactly sure what the attraction was - probably the spectacular setting as one of the dramatic arms encircling the gorgeous Spectacle Lakes Cirque and the large size of the route. I followed Dan up a nice little dihedral with some 5.2ish moves and then up a face. We all stumbled out of our bivy sacks, had some breakfast, got our gear set, and headed up the ridge by about 04:15. I continued along the ledge system angling up toward the ridge crest. Rocky Mountain National Park - Ypsilon Mountain (Blitzen Ridge) Posted by dsneider1 at 10:10 AM No comments: Email This BlogThis! The pair had departed from the Lawn Lakes trailhead at 3:15 a.m. on the morning of March 16 with the intent of climbing Ypsilon via the Blitzen Ridge route and descending Donner Ridge to the south. Soon I joined Fabio and we swapped gear for the final time. We got periodic taunts and cajoles over the radio as we slowly made our way up toward the summit. Blitzen Ridge on Ypsilon Mountain is a challenging mountaineering route that includes sections of technical rock, often made more difficult in winter conditions. https://www.alltrails.com/trail/us/colorado/ypsilon-lake-trail At about 12,000' you'll run into the four Aces. Those Seeking Adventure and Solitude: Deep in Rocky Mountain National Park we have found not only classic high quality climbs, but a pristine and peaceful experience. Depending on the strategy you choose, the day involves at least 10 miles of hiking and climbing, with at least seven thousand feet of cumulative elevation gain/loss. Recent snow and winds have contributed to what the Colorado Avalanche Information Center forecasted as considerable avalanche conditions in this area since Saturday. The gist of all the beta we'd read was to pass the first three aces on the south side and the fourth ace on the north side. After climbing the Spiral Route on Notchtop Mountain the previous day, Jeff and I decided to tackle Blitzen Ridge on Ypsilon Mountain. Ypsilon Mountain is a 13er in the Mummy Range of Northern Colorado. The beta also said that the path around the fourth ace was the most challenging. But remember to look around and enjoy the views- Ypsilon, Blitzen Ridge, Fairchild. When I joined Dan at the belay he was coiling the rope and Brian had already set out up the ridge. For the first two, traverse ledges to left (south) side of the ridge proper. Oh well - it was fun anyway. The route has 4 distinct rock features known as the 4 Aces which, along with a headwall after them, rise hundreds of feet into the air and comprise the crux of the climb with the difficulty ranging from 5.4-5.6. Blitzen Ridge on Ypsilon Mountain is a challenging mountaineering route that includes sections of technical rock, often made more difficult in winter conditions. We were all feeling a sense of urgency so we encouraged Dan and Brian to simul-climb instead of pitching it out. We decided to go up the eastern side of the Blitzen Ridge, climbing up from the northeast side of Ypsilon Lake. By the time Fabio and I caught up Dan was already out of sight. The Official Whitepages. This is where most people stop. I lined up some more partners, arranged the bivy permits, and showed up at The Beaver Meadows Visitor Center Saturday afternoon to meet Dan, Brian, and Fabio and pick up our permits. Dan was by far the strongest rock climber among us so we encouraged him to try to attack the arte directly. They said they'd wait there for us unless the weather got really bad. This might now supersede Kiener's and/or the Keyhole Ridge as my favorite alpine scramble in the park, simply for the quality of rock and length of the ridge. Fabio and I made a team, Brian and Dan made the other. Once through the two pitches or so of the headwall we would be beyond all the technical climbing and into 3rd class terrain. Labels: Colorado, National Parks, Rock Climbing, summit, United States. Follow this trail all the way to Ypsilon Lake (3 more miles). Thus I had to wait a whole other year to make my attempt. He didn't though, and soon he joined me in the notch. Blitzen Ridge on Ypsilon Mountain is a challenging mountaineering route that includes sections of technical rock, often made more difficult in winter conditions. We hadn't heard or seen any indication of thunder or lightning and I had my rain gear. We named the two ridges "Donder" and "Blitzen" ridges - thunder and lightening. I set up the belay and brought Fabio down. It ended too soon though and soon I was swapping gear with Fabio. By this time the clouds were beginning to develop into something fairly menacing looking. Many years ago (about Sept 1958) Phil Ritterbush, Clint Brooks, Jim Walker, Dave Fedson and I (students at Yale at the time) did the first ascent of the Blitzen Ridge. View of Ypsilon from Chipmunk Lake At Lake Ypsilon we continued clockwise around to its north side heading for a steep grassy gully that deposits you on Blitzen ridge. I gained the ridge just west of the summit of the second ace. Fabio was cool with it so I set off. To reach the Fays, you first have to hike 4.5 miles (1 way) to Ypsilon Lake. I set up a quick belay and brought Fabio over. Anton Krupicka's Mountain Project report from a run (probably FKT) in August 2015. The terrain was just not steep enough and the rope drag was tremendous. We still hadn't seen or heard a hint of lightning or thunder but it looked like the rain could start at any minute. We all took the opportunity to have a little rest, a big snack, and joke around. There were some fun moves on great rock. Our 70m rope just barely got me to the notch were I found a rappel anchor where somebody had obviously decided to bail. The first 50' of the pitch were up an interesting gully thing with a couple of fun moves but once up that it was 3rd class to the belay. The ledge system I was on was just too comfortable to leave. On the way we had to make the detour to retrieve our stuff from the bivy site. I think Brian was the most concerned among us and was seriously considering bailing at this point. I followed easily with Dan leading right behind me. Towards the top the face became completely vertical, if not overhanging. Descend via Donner Ridge (see our map), or another way. The summit of Ypsilon Peak is at 13,500 feet in elevation — so altitude plays a major factor as well. I was out of practise and a good deal more uncomfortable with exposure than I remembered. We gained quite a bit of elevation while we hiked along in the dark. It looked doable from where we were so Dan set off. Soon Fabio joined me and we swapped gear. The third ace is best climbed directly up a corner that's slightly right of center, then cut left to reach the top of the ace (YDS 5.3). In the fall of 2006 I lined up a bunch of partners, got our bivy permits squared away, but the weather did not cooperate. Need to be heads-up, but this felt like a very logical, efficient descent.". The trail to Ypsilon Lake is a quiet trail traveling up to a fine alpine lake. We had planned to simul-climb, but once on the summit of the first ace Fabio decided to just bring me up because simul-climbing over the top and down the other side would have caused too much rope drag. Hiking to Ypsilon Lake (and Beyond) 8/16/2020 0 Comments Trailhead: Lawn Lake Trailhead Elevation: 8,540' Destination Elevation: 10,559' Total Elevation Gain: 2,180' Found your site while Googling Blitzen Ridge on Ypsilon Peak. According to Tom Cunningham (23), Lawrence Berman (21) had gotten a technical climbing permit for the Blitzen Ridge on Mt. Again on that pitch there may have been a couple of 5th class moves, but it was mostly much easier. Rocky Mountain National Park - Ypsilon Mountain (Blitzen Ridge) Posted by dsneider1 at 10:10 AM No comments: Email This BlogThis! Found your site while Googling Blitzen Ridge on Ypsilon Peak. Before reaching the end of the rope Fabio set up a belay and brought me up. However, with careful route finding, there … I pulled a couple of pretty stiff moves through the overhanging section before topping out on the headwall. Ypsilon Mountain. With comprehensive contact information, including cell phone numbers, for over 275 million people nationwide, and Whitepages SmartCheck, the fast, comprehensive background check compiled from criminal and other records from all 50 states.Landlords use Whitepages TenantCheck, which is … That was a small price to pay for a successful ascent of the route. Fabio and I still had maybe a thousand feet of vertical to go to reach the summit but Brian and Dan were almost to the summit. During a glance over the shoulder to see when the sun would rise we spotted another set of headlamps coming up the ridge. I made it car-to-car in 3h52---or, rather, bike-to-bike, I suppose, as I approached via bike from Boulder. The ascent is just one part of the journey. Two days previously, we'd been repulsed by… These are four, "A" shaped crests on the ridge that present the crux of the route. This pitch on the third was more interesting than the rest - maybe sustained 5.0ish with one interesting 5.4 move in the middle. This classic mountaineering route up Ypsilon Mountain is one of the most prized ridge climbs in Colorado. We set a leisurely pace and arrived at the Lake around 18:00. Blitzen ridge is a very popular and often talked about climb in Rocky Mountain National Park. Blitzen Ridge is a HUGE day. This route provided better footing than the gully and in no time we arrived on the crest of the ridge. Blitzen Ridge – Rock and snow. Blitzen Ridge is one of the finest ridges that can be climbed in Rocky Mountain National Park. Continue they did. Despite forecasted rain, we decided to go for it anyway with an alpine start and a plan to be back to the car by 1pm. There might have been a few low 5th class moves on that first pitch but mostly it was 4th class. I found one opportunity that looked like some stout 5.7 and chickened out. Despite forecasted rain, we decided to go for it anyway with an alpine start and a plan to be back to the car by 1pm. Location: Ypsilon Mountain, Colorado 80517, USA. Once Fabio had set up a belay he brought me up. After packing up and reorganizing our kit we resumed the death march back to the car and arrived at the Lawn Lake Trailhead at 19:30. There was no social trail and no cairns. After the first 50' the terrain eased quite a bit, but remained sustained 4th class. After our snack Fabio and I swapped gear once more and he set off around the fourth and final ace. Cresting this ridge will land you in the Fay Lakes basin, and following the top of the ridge west will take you to Blitzen Ridge, and one of the technical ways to ascend Ypsilon Mountain. Brian and Dan had fitness and youth on their side while Fabio and I had age and fatness working against us. After setting up our bivy we hiked back down to the lake to filter water and cook some dinner. We sorted out our racks, left a car at the visitor center, and headed over to Lawn Lake Trailhead. Mountain Project link here. At the top of the 100' ramp Fabio set up the belay and brought me up. He found some interesting climbing and after a couple of interesting moves found a reasonable looking ledge system that appeared like it would get us around the north side of the ace. Location: Ypsilon Mountain, Colorado 80517, USA. A party of two (Climber 1 and Climber 2) departed from the Lawn Lakes trailhead at 3:15AM on the morning of March 16th with intent of climbing Ypsilon Mountain (13,514 ft) via the Blitzen Ridge route and descending via the Donner Ridge to the south. Just west of the second ace far the strongest rock climber among us and was seriously considering at. Seen or heard a hint of lightning or thunder but it was not. Waiting for us and headed down the other certainly the stoutest moves I 've wanted to climb Blitzen.... 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